Contemporary Silversmiths Revive Silver’s Legacy in Modern Design

Leo Costelloe, an artist and silversmith based in London, creates cutlery that resembles flowing ribbons, keepsake boxes adorned with strands of human hair, and sterling silver vases shaped like paper wrappers commonly used for bouquets. Reflecting on his craft, Costelloe, who grew up in Australia and studied jewelry design at Central Saint Martins, explains, “I enjoy exploring the function and expectations of objects. Among metals, silver is the most versatile and evokes the texture of textiles, which fascinates me.” Despite silver traditionally symbolizing privilege, Costelloe notes he did not grow up surrounded by fine silverware or china, highlighting how the metal’s association with class is evolving.

Costelloe is among a fresh wave of silversmiths redefining silver for today’s world. Heath Wagoner, 36, began crafting silver flatware during the pandemic lockdown as a way to reconnect with the communal dinners he missed. With a background in metalsmithing and experience as a visual merchandising consultant for a renowned jeweler, Wagoner started designing medieval-inspired silver, brass, and copper spoons and forks, sharing his work on social media. The positive response inspired him to develop a full collection featuring pieces reminiscent of 1920s cocktail parties. His creations include hors d’oeuvre picks topped with black or white pearls, an artfully imperfect oyster fork, and a spoon tailored for enjoying vitello tonnato, a classic Italian veal dish. Wagoner observes that while some items seem removed from everyday life, they bring charm and appreciation when used, such as serving olives with a special silver spoon.

Balancing his appreciation for vintage silver and its rituals with contemporary design, Wagoner also experiments with avant-garde objects. A recent example is an oversized sardine can he crafted to serve white asparagus at a dinner. He is currently working on a custom commission for an art museum co-founder: a saltine cracker holder made from a delicate 22-gauge sterling silver sheet, designed to replicate the thin, waxy texture of the crackers’ packaging and evoke a tactile, paper-like quality.

Meanwhile, Tom Chapman and Nicolas Pickaerts, former executives of a British luxury shopping platform, have launched Abask, an e-commerce site offering refined sterling silver pieces. Their collection includes contemporary tea and coffee services crafted by esteemed European manufacturers such as Jarosinski & Vaugoin, a Vienna-based family forge with six generations of history supplying royal palaces. Abask also features rare antiques, like a mid-century articulated fish adorned with jewel-like eyes and a solid sterling silver chewing gum holder from the 1930s. Chapman reflects, “Presenting a silver tea service encourages a slower, more contemplative pace, as engaging with such elegant objects invites mindfulness.”