Crafting Elegance: The Art Behind Tiffany's Wings Bracelet

Jean Schlumberger, a prominent designer at Tiffany & Co. for over thirty years starting in 1956, was renowned for transforming elements of nature—flowers and sea creatures—into whimsical jewelry creations. Reflecting on his inspiration, he once remarked, “I saw nature and I found verve.” His distinctive designs drew a prestigious clientele, including Jacqueline Kennedy, Elizabeth Taylor, and the Duchess of Windsor. In 1965, during the debut of his latest piece—a diamond-studded platinum and 18-karat gold cockatoo perched on an oversized topaz—audiences responded with delighted amusement. Among the first buyers was horticulturist Rachel “Bunny” Mellon, who chose a version featuring a cabochon lapis lazuli perch. By 1995, nearly a decade after Schlumberger’s passing at age 80, the brooch had become iconic enough for the company to craft a special edition set with the nearly 129-carat yellow Tiffany Diamond, coinciding with a major retrospective exhibition in Paris.

Expanding on the legacy of the Bird on a Rock collection introduced two years prior, Tiffany & Co. has unveiled the Wings bracelet—an abstract interpretation featuring a recurring feather motif that pays homage to Schlumberger’s avian-inspired designs. The designer famously said, “Ideas come to me at pencil point,” a philosophy embraced by Tiffany’s chief artistic officer, Nathalie Verdeille. She initiated the creative process by delving into the company archives in New Jersey, reviewing original sketches and settings. Her design team then collaborated closely with engineers and master artisans at Tiffany’s Jewelry and Design Innovation Workshop in Manhattan’s Flatiron district, established in 2018. There, initial drawings were transformed into resin or metal models before evolving into the final prototypes. Crafted in either platinum or rose gold, the hinged Wings bracelet demands over 50 hours of meticulous work. It features intricate engraving and is set with 261 diamonds of varying sizes arranged in a cobblestone pattern that evokes the texture of ruffled feathers. When worn, the bracelet strikes a balance between elegance and playfulness, serving as a reminder—amid today’s technological advances—to appreciate the simple beauty found in nature.